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GUSTO DOES IT AGAIN (the 2007 sequel)

The noise in La Sala degli Assaggi (Tasting Room) was almost as overwhelming as the tangle of scents that poured over us as we entered. Steaming polenta, tangy parmesan, sausages, truffles and garlic mingled to make me almost believe I’d made a quick trip to Italy via the Harbour Bridge! Above the babble of voices, I heard a shout – mamma mia! – and that almost confirmed it. 

It’s impossible to know whether this year’s Gusto, the second annual event organised by CIRA (the Council of Italian Restaurants Australia – www.cira.com.au) in conjunction with Sydney Fish Market Pyrmont, is named in Italian or English.

While in the mother-tongue of most of these restaurateurs gusto means taste or pleasure, we use the same word in English to signify energy and enthusiasm. ‘Hearty and keen enjoyment’ says one dictionary. It hardly matters, as all these qualities were in abundance at last Sunday’s tasteful, pleasurable, enthusiastic, energetic celebration of Italian food and wine.

As I walked between the tables in the tasting room, it was impossible to resist Lucio’s amazing testaroli which he explained is like a very ancient form of pasta, made originally on a flat griddle like a pancake, then sliced and simmered. Faithfully recreated and served with a brilliant green spinach sauce, it was a standout dish.

But then so were AC Butchery’s (www.acbutchery.com.au) pork and fennel chipolatas, fat little morsels so tender and juicy that I am heading off asap to one of their shops (they now have three, scattered helpfully around the suburbs) to buy some for myself.

Elsewhere there were mussels and huge pots of risotto, tiny platters of antipasto, and the best gnocchi I have ever eaten. Of course it should have been as it came straight from the hands of Beppi’s and Mezzaluna’s staff under the watchful eye of the master himself. When you have been in the business of bringing the best of Italian fare to Sydney-siders for as long as the Polese family have, of course the result is going to be superb. 

Other rooms around the Sydney Seafood School had been set aside for Master Classes in a range of aspects of Italian cookery and taught by Master Chefs. Others held tutored wine tastings of Italian wines. We dropped in for a few minutes to watch a group of children learning the intricacies of gnocchi-making, one of the Bambini in Cucina (kids in the kitchen) offerings. Elsewhere the Casalinga (homemade) program was also popular with visitors learning from experts how to make pizza, gelato or Italian dolci (pastries). 

Next door to the young gnocchi-ers, we found a room which had been turned into a veritable treasure house of Italian foodstuffs with booths set up by importers and provedores to display hams and cheeses, pasta, olive oils, truffle products and much more, and of course generously offering tastes and advice. The aroma made our mouths water and would have been irresistible if we hadn’t already visited the tasting room.

Gusto – a day to remember, full of the Italian zest for life and love of good sociable eating. And a reminder of how lucky we are to have such a vibrant mix of cultural and culinary backgrounds in this city.

Take whatever meaning you want for the gusto, but make it an absolute  ‘musto’ for next year. Pencil it in right now.

 

Since traveling through Italy’s southern regions last year and writing Just a Little Italian, a book on our experiences, Italy and it’s people have a special place in our hearts. 

So it’s good news that GUSTO hosted by the Council of Italian Restaurants in Australia (CIRA), Sydney Seafood School and Sydney Fish Market is very soon. I went last year and it was one of the absolutely best days! I can’t wait to go again.

In a word ‘Gusto’ embodies the Italian culinary ethos: the vigorous enjoyment, zest and relish through which Italian culture and traditions are borne out in diverse, authentic, local, cuisine.

Sometimes described as Italy’s 21st region, where would Australia be without Italian food or Italian people? Gusto also represents the zest with which Australian culture has embraced Italian fare since the arrival of half a million Italian immigrants between the 1940s and 1980s.

Celebrate Italian food and learn from talented chefs on Sunday, 26th August at ‘Gusto, an Exploration of Italian Regions’, an all day Italian food festival at Sydney Seafood School, Sydney Fish Market from 10am to 5pm.

The day’s lineup includes:

• Master Class cooking demonstrations;
• Wine and olive oil workshops;
• ‘Casalinga’ (Home Made) sessions – teaching the art of classic Italian cooking in
the home;
• Bambini in Cucina (Kids in the Kitchen) sessions - cooking classes for children;
• La Sala degli Assaggi (The Tasting Room) 11am-3.30pm, offering tastings from Sydney’s leading Italian chefs, producers, provedores and importers. 

Gusto sessions cost just $45 each or $135 for a one-day pass, which includes four sessions and free parking at Sydney Fish Market. There is the option to pre-buy books of ten tasting vouchers ($20) when booking. 

Gusto concludes with a celebratory dinner on Monday, 27th August, set to launch taste buds into the stratosphere.  With a formal five-course dinner at Doltone House in Pyrmont, prepared by CIRA chefs including Armando Percuoco & Massimo Bianchi (Buon Ricordo), Danny Russo, Logan Campbell (Lucio’s), Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at Freshwater), James Kidman (Otto) and George Pompei (Pompei’s), Gusto’s dinner finale is a must for serious food-lovers. 

The dinner subtitled ‘Delizie d’Inverno’ or ‘delights of winter’ is $160 per person. Tables of 10 are available for $1,500. 

Gusto festival and/or dinner bookings can be made through Sydney Seafood School on 02 9004 1111 or by email to sss@sydneyfishmarket.com.au. The full program can be viewed at www.cira.com.au

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