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NOT HAPPY, JUAN

© Sally Hammond

"I still have that one peso menu," says my guide, Maria, as we pass a McDonalds in downtown Buenos Aires.

We had been commenting that the burgers should be especially good here as Argentina is noted for its fine beef. Already we have seen, in other parts of the city, whole shopfronts taken up with a roasting carcass, twirling slowly on a spit in front of kiln-hot coals. Parrilladas in Argentina – aka barbecued meat restaurants - are some of the best you'll find anywhere.

"It was the day after the banks closed," continued Maria, "They should have charged three pesos, as that is how far our money had dropped, but instead they kept it at the old price - a burger for a peso – just for that one day. I still keep that menu."

Today a McHappy meal costs five pesos, but many residents of Argentina are not happy, Juan.

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This article continues with details of  Buenos Aires and  includes information on the people, accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.

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The peso may have plummeted. The paint may be peeling. The party– certainly for many in the wealthy middle classes – may be over, but Buenos Aires is not finished yet. 

Already places like highly charged La Boca at the waterfront – think, Montmartre on acid – pulsates with life. Here, you can almost slice those bold colours that don't just brighten the amazing cartoon-like statues which hang from first floor windows or lounge on street corners, but spread over walls, balconies, roofs and windows. These few streets really rock, and we strolled entire laneways filled with irresistible art works and sculpture. 

To comprehend the extremes of this city, you need to remember that this is the country that brought us the tango, and the beat lingers on. The economic climate may well be 'not happy, Juan', but dancing is free. And easy.

It takes two to tango, so that's probably all the invitation we all need.

©Sally Hammond 2006

Picture Credits: ©Gordon Hammond 2006

(Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled to Buenos Aires on Aerolineas Argentinas as guests of Peregrine Adventures)

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