THE OLD INDIAN HOPE TRICK - © Sally Hammond 

Editors: This story is ideal as 2007 marks the 60th anniversary of India’s independence.

"Tawa chapatti, tawa chapatti!" The red-turbaned man seated by the pool’s wall begins singing the moment we come into view. A mischievous grin flashes under a generous twirling moustache and his eyes light up.

 "Tawa chapatti" – well, that's what it sounds like anyway. He waves to us as one-handed he keeps playing his discordant ditty on a graceful stringed instrument.

 "'What is he singing?", I ask our guide, Jitu. “Is it about the pool?”

 It’s a rare oasis in this barren edge-of-the-desert place. Jaisalmer sits on the brink of the Thar desert, said to be second in size to the Sahara, and water is rare here. That's why the Gadi Sagar – this lake – was constructed over six centuries ago to supply drinking water for the community. Now it connects to the Rajasthan Canal, and people now swim here instead.

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This article continues with details of Jaisalmer and the fort that rises like an insecure sand castle from the city, and the Sam sand dunes nearby. It  includes information on accommodation provided, local food and cuisine, things to do and see.

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(finishes…)

 "Tawa chapatti!" As we turn to leave our man strikes up a blazing finale. At last Jitu translates for us.  

"September 11 and the Iraq War have been bad for us here,” he tells us, “He's saying how glad he is that the tourists have returned."

Well, of course we put a 20-rupee note in his hand. "Tawa chapatti," we say, or something like it.

And then we remember the one Hindi word we know. 

"Namaste." The greeting that doubles as hello – and goodbye. Rather appropriate, we think.

©Sally Hammond 2007

Picture Credits: ©Gordon Hammond 2007

(Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled as guests of Indian Tourism)

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